The High Pointe Inn

Cape Cod: Free Style

Cape Cod offers so much to see and do that you could literally spend weeks exploring its beautiful beaches, great nature trails, and kayaking the numerous creeks and tidal marshes. Museums are plentiful too, as is live theatre, and music at the Melody Tent and other venues. Not to mention sampling all the fine restaurants, clam shacks, farmer’s markets, and ice cream shops that feature the freshest of local fare. And dare we leave out fun adventures like whale watching, seal cruises, and deep sea fishing.

But what if you are on a limited budget, as many of our guests are? What can Cape Cod offer the frugal traveler or those interested in an authentic experience on their vacation. Plenty. So much that boston.com just released their top “25 Free Things to do on Cape Cod” list online this week.

It got me thinking about our favorite things to do on Cape Cod. As innkeepers we get very little free time, especially during the summer months. But having survived 11 years of running an inn, Rich and I have become fairly adept at carving out time for ourselves and exploring all the nooks and crannies that make up this amazing peninsula we live and work on. We quite often jump in the car and see where it takes us. These little adventures have uncovered some great places to while away an afternoon. And many of them offer no cost or low cost entertainment. Here for your enjoyment and consideration, is our “Top Ten List of Free Ways to Spend a Cape Cod Day“.

Hop in the car and drive the Old King’s Highway (Route 6A), rated one of the “Ten Most Scenic Byways in America”.
Pack a picnic and a good book and spend the afternoon at Fort Hill wandering the trails and enjoying an awe-inspiring view.
Stroll the paved multi-use path along the Cape Cod Canal admiring the numerous boat that ply the water.
Grab a net and head for Paines Creek in Brewster when the tide is low to explore the tide pools.
Walk the beach at Sandy Neck looking for sea glass and heart rocks.
Kayak Chase Garden Creek following the tides for an “up a lazy river” experience.
Take an ice cream cone to the boardwalk at Gray’s Beach for a magnificent sunset.
Climb Scargo Tower and take pictures of Cape Cod Bay from the top.
Take a leisurely walk in the 6-acre Spohr Garden on Oyster Pond in Falmouth.
Ride your bike along the 11-mile Shining Sea Bikeway from north Falmouth to Woods Hole.

Dog Day Afternoon: At the Cape Cod National Seashore

We are experiencing the “dog days” on Cape Cod. These are the hottest, most sultry days of the year that usually occur sometime between early July and early September. The moniker comes from the ancient belief that Sirius, also known as the Dog Star, was somehow responsible for the hot weather. Be that as it may, on Cape Cod hot and sultry is what we live for…the long and lazy days of summer that are best spent at the beach. Something that the Cape has no shortage of, to be sure.

Having an unplanned afternoon with no check-ins to wait around for at the Inn, Rich and I declared a “dog holiday” and packed up the Subaru with a cooler full of sandwiches and cold drinks, some folding chairs, and Casey, our almost 11 year old yellow lab and resident inn dog. We headed east, destination uncertain, but definitely within the bounds of the National Seashore as dogs are permitted on the beach as long as they are on a leash, something unheard of at most other public beaches on Cape Cod, with few exceptions. It is one of the rare complaints that we have, actually, about living on Cape Cod, as living here for the most part is idyllic. But if you are a dog, or a dog lover, the nearly universal restriction of dogs on the beaches from April or May through September or October is the bane of our existence.

We ended up at Marconi Beach in Wellfleet after an unsuccessful try to secure a parking spot at Coast Guard and Nauset Light beaches in Eastham. Marconi took its name from the famous Italian inventor, Marconi, who successfully completed the first transatlantic wireless communication between the U.S. and England in 1903 at a site nearby.

Known for the steep sand cliffs that back the beach, Marconi is one of the most beautiful beaches on all of Cape Cod. There is a sense of solitude that beach goers can experience at Marconi, for the wide expanse of nearly pristine sand stretches endlessly east and west. Once beyond the fray of the sun worshippers, ball players, and boogie boarders that seem to congregate between the lifeguards keeping a watchful eye on the action, you can claim an area an acre wide for yourself on the remaining swath of beach and be undisturbed for the remainder of the day if you like.

Casey, of course, was in doggie heaven. A jaunt on the beach on one of the most sultry of summer days is a rare event indeed for her, and she took full advantage of the freedom to roam from tide pool to tide pool testing the water temperature and doing her version of the dog paddle. In her youth she was an avid swimmer, but as the advancing years have settled in on her joints, she now simply likes to lie down in the water, attempt to roll over and scoot her snout beneath the surface of the water, something akin to doggie snorkeling, I presume. Whatever floats your boat.

It was a wonderful afternoon for all three of us. Walking the beach we shed our “hospitality fatigue” and returned home renewed and refreshed and ready to tackle the responsibilities of being innkeepers on Cape Cod once again.

Lobster Roll Anyone? Try a Cape Cod Church Supper

My father loved a good church supper. Whenever we traveled, especially among the New England states, he and my mother would canvass the area for a family-style supper offering at a local church. Perhaps their motivation was that it was an economical way to feed a family of four, but I think the real incentive was the wholesome goodness of real food cooked honestly and served with pride in a humble setting. Ham and beans were often the traditional fare found at these events, but once in a while if I was really lucky, the featured entrée would be my favorite, chicken pot pie. Served at long tables in the church’s basement or fellowship hall, the usual accompaniment was homemade bread and butter, and dessert was always a fresh berry pie a la mode. Yum.

It’s hard to find a ham and bean church supper on Cape Cod in the summer, but if you’re looking for the quintessential lobster roll experience, you don’t have to look very far to find a lobster roll luncheon at a number of churches and fellowship halls up and down this watery peninsula. Offered at a reasonable prices, and often including side dishes and a beverage, these events attract tourists, locals, and a loyal roster of regulars, too. So here, in no particular order, are a few worth considering:

The Federated Church of Hyannis, 320 Main St., Hyannis, 11 a.m. to 1 p.m. Fridays until Sept. 17. Advance orders and takeout: 508-775-0298.
The First United Methodist Church, 16 Cross St., Chatham, 4:30 p.m. to 7:30 p.m. Fridays until Aug. 27
Christ Episcopal Church, 671 Main St. (Route 28), Harwich Port, 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Fridays, until Sept. 3
Harwich United Methodist Church Fellowship Hall, 1 Church St., 11 a.m. to 1 p.m. Wednesdays, until Aug. 25. Takeout: 508-432-3734
West Yarmouth Congregational Church, 383 Main St. (Route 28), 11 a.m. July 15 and Aug. 14. Takeout: 508-775-0891
Adams Masonic Lodge, off Main Street in the Wharf Road area, Wellfleet, 5 to 8 p.m. Wednesdays
St. Barnabas Episcopal Church, 91 Main St., Falmouth, 5 to 7p.m. Mondays in July and August.

Where Are the 1,000 Great Places in Massachusetts? Nearly 100 Are on Cape Cod!

The first ever list of 1000 Great Places in Massachusetts was released yesterday, July 12, 2010. Selected from over 12,000 nominations, the range of Great Places shines on every part of the state, but none so much as Cape Cod. Intended to celebrate what is truly special about Massachusetts, the list of 1000 Great Places gives visitors the opportunity to see the variety and richness the state has to offer. For those of us who live and work on Cape Cod, it was a point of much civic pride to realize that nearly 10% of the identified 1000 Great Places are right here on the lovely peninsular we call home.

So here in alphabetical order, are the places known and loved by many that make Cape Cod special, not only to the residents, but to those who come to visit us year round. You can view the whole list of Great Places in Massachusetts online, or visit the Massachusetts Office of Travel and Tourism website.

Barnstable

Cahoon Museum of American Art
Hyannis Harbor
JFK Museum
Long Pasture Wildlife Sanctuary
Melody Tent
Sandy Neck Beach
Sturgis Library
The Hyannis National Guard Armory

Bourne

Aptucxet Trading Post Museum
Cape Cod Canal Bike Path
Scusset Beach State Reservation
The Herring Run Recreation Area at the Cape Cod Canal

Brewster

Cape Cod Rail Trail
Nickerson State Park
Stony Brook Grist Mill
The Brewster Flats
The Crosby Mansion
The Old Mill

Chatham

Chatham Light
Chatham Village
Monomoy Island
The Chatham Fish Pier

Dennis

Bass River
Cape Cod Museum of Art
Cold Storage Beach
Mayflower Beach
Scargo Tower
Sesuit Harbor

Eastham

Cape Cod National Seashore
Coast Guard Beach
First Encounter Beach
Fort Hill

Falmouth

Ashumet Holly Wildlife Sanctuary
Bourne Farm
Falmouth Museums on the Green
Falmouth Shining Sea Bikeway
Highfield Hall
Nobska Point Lighthouse
Spohr Garden on Fells Road
The Knob, Woods Hole
Woods Hole Village

Mashpee

Cape Cod Children’s Museum
Old Indian Church
South Cape Beach
Waquoit Bay

Orleans

Academy of Performing Arts Playhouse
French Cable Station Museum
Nauset Beach
Rock Harbor
Plymouth
Brewster Gardens to Jenny Pond
Ellisville Harbor State Park
Historic Plymouth Harbor
Jenney Grist Mill
Myles Standish State Forest
Pilgrim Hall Museum
Plimoth Plantation
Plymouth Rock
The Cordage Historical Society in Plymouth

Provincetown

Cape Cod National Sea Shore
Commercial Street
Fine Arts Work Center
Hatches Harbor
Herring Cove Beach
Pilgrim Monument
Art Association and Museum
Race Point Lighthouse
The Breakwater’s Rock Passage

Sandwich

Benjamin Nye Homestead
Heritage Museums & Gardens
Historic Village and Historic District
Sandwich Glass Museum
Sandwich Grist Mill
The Board Walk
Thornton W. Burgess Society

Truro

Ballston Beach
Highland Light
Highland Links Golf Course
Artist shacks in the dunes
Truro Center for the Arts at Castle Hill

Wareham

A. D. Makepeace Store
Church Street Historic District
Cranberry Bog Farms Trail
Onset Beach/Village
Plymouth County Cranberry Country Routes 58 and 28.
The Porter Thermometer Museum

Wellfleet

Jeremy’s Point
Marconi Station Site
Mass Audubon Society Wellfleet Bay Sanctuary
Newcomb’s Hollow Beach
The Beachcomber
Town Center and Harbor
Uncle Tim’s Bridge
Wellfleet Drive-in

Yarmouth

Boardwalk onto the Marsh at Gray’s Beach
Cultural Center of Cape Cod
Edward Gorey’s House
Judah Baker Windmill on Bass River

Cape Cod Innkeepers’ Day Off at Wellfleet Bay Wildlife Sanctuary

In our never-ending quest to find new places for our guests to explore, we meandered down to Wellfleet a couple of weeks ago to scope out the Wellfleet Bay Wildlife Sanctuary. Having recently joined Mass Audubon, we are on a mission to visit as many of their properties as is humanly possible for innkeepers on Cape Cod during the spring, summer, and fall.

What we found at Wellfleet Bay is 1,100 acres of conservation land consisting of salt marsh, a sandy beach, pine woods, freshwater pond, and a wide array of wildlife, including song and shorebirds. The Nature Center is a tribute to green technology, featuring passive solar heating, composting toilets, and graywater planter beds. The building hosts a variety of local plant and animal displays, plus two 700-gallon aquariums that captured Rich’s attention. I, of course, was drawn to the gift shop and was pleasantly surprised to see a healthy collection of natural history books for both adults and children, plus the usual selection of note cards, posters, jewelry, toys, and tools for exploring nature.

We chose the Goose Pond Trail for our first expedition of the sanctuary. We were told that it is the most popular trail and the best introduction to what lies within. The trail took us through pine and oak woods, along Goose Pond, and out to the edge of a salt marsh. It was quiet and peaceful, and easy to navigate…a gentle walk for a summer day. Along the way we spied an unusual bird wading in the pond. It is not something we have seen before, and we are hoping to have one of our birdwatcher friends identify it for us.

At the end of that trail we followed the Boardwalk Trail across the salt marsh to a sandy beach and the tidal flats of Cape Cod Bay. Everywhere we looked we saw fiddler crabs and periwinkles scavenging among the mud flats. The tide was incoming, so getting out to the beach itself was not possible due to the large channels that cut through the marsh and the swiftly running current. It was nearly deserted, though and I could envision a wonderfully private picnic someday when we were more prepared.

All-in-all our afternoon at Wellfleet Bay Wildlife Sanctuary was well-spent. We ended the day at Wellfleet Harbor, watching the pleasure boats returning from an afternoon at sea, and enjoying a soft-serve ice cream from Mac’s on the waterfront.

ABBA Restaurant-Our New Cape Cod Favorite

Yesterday, my husband and I celebrated our 12th wedding anniversary by trying a new restaurant here on Cape Cod. New to us that is. ABBA, located at 89 Old Colony Way in Orleans, opened in November 2001, but yesterday was the first time we had an opportunity to dine there. We were welcomed by the effervescent hostess, who gave us our choice of tables from a cozy nook in the corner to a lively table near the miniscule bar, or on the tented terrace with its billowing ceiling and airy feel. We chose the intimate corner, of course, to mark the special occasion.

Renowned for its pan-Mediterranean menu, ABBA’s Israeli chef specializes in unusually flavorful dishes with a distinctly Thai twist. Our waiter, Tom, was attentive and knowledgeable, sharing his insight into the restaurant’s menu offerings and proffering a confident review of the spices used to infuse each dish with its unique flavor.

I chose a starter of grilled scallops with an eggplant salad dressed in a grapefruit vinaigrette. It was, in a word, exquisite. Perfectly grilled, the scallops were lightly seasoned and accompanied by a creamy eggplant custard topped with fresh greens. Rich opted for a grilled calamari Thai salad with watercress, and declared it perfection.

The wine list is extensive and is composed of highly rated wines at excellent value. I chose a French red from the Rhone region, but was highly intrigued by the offerings from the chef’s native Israel.

The dining room is an intimate affair, with candles flickering in hand-painted Moroccan tea glasses, banquettes strewn with pillows in rich fabrics, and tables set for 2, 4, and 6 casually, but elegantly placed around the small dining room.

Our main courses were simply divine. I had grilled tuna with a vegetable nori roll in a balsamic, miso, and mustard sauce. The tuna melted in my mouth and the nori roll was a delightful mix of sticky rice with crisp vegetables done tempura style. Rich tried braised beef cheeks in a masman curry, which was accompanied by a golden Yukon potato puree wrapped in a grilled strip of zucchini and a side of grilled broccolini. It was clear his choice hit the mark, as he is still raving about it today.

Dessert for him was panna cotta infused with lavender, and I chose the Oxymoron after-dinner drink fashioned from a mix of Stoli Vanilla, Kahlua & Espresso. The perfect ending to a perfect meal. In the words of our good friend, Jerry McGuire (the one and only) ABBA just became our “new favorite Cape Cod restaurant”.

Cape Cod’s Captains’ Mile

Rich and I have lived on Cape Cod, happily running our bed and breakfast inn, for seven years now. Yet, today we learned something new about the place we call home. Our inn is located just off Route 6A, affectionately known as the Old Kings Highway. Having been designated one of the 10 most scenic drives in America, Route 6A is also the longest national historic road in Massachusetts. A drive along the winding curves of this historic route will take you past some 200 sea captains’ homes that date back to the 1800 and heyday of the whaling era here on Cape Cod.

In Yarmouthport, a mile and a half strip of 6A has been aptly and officially named the Captain’s Mile, for along this length are 47 stately homes that belonged to former sea captains. In 2004, the Yarmouthport Historical Society completed extensive research that identified 55 properties along that route that were once owned by men who sailed the seas. Many are still private homes, although some have been converted to bed and breakfast inns or other commercial enterprises. In honor of their unique history, each sea captains’ home along the Yarmouthport Captain’s Mile proudly bears a black and gold Schooner Plaque near the front door as a means of identification.

So today as we drove this historic route, winding along the sinewy tree-lined curves past manicured lawns and well-tended gardens, we tried to spot the Schooner Plaque homes and imagine what life was like for the hearty sailors that took to the sea in pursuit of whales or some other treasure, and the wives and children they left behind.

Cape Cod’s Finest Lodging Awards

There are days when you toil at this thing called inn-keeping, and days when it seems as if the moon and the stars align to beam all their energy directly on you. Today was one of those days…a moon and star day.

When you are a small business, like the High Pointe Inn, competing in a big pond, like Cape Cod, it is often an effort to stand out among the many fine lodging establishments that dot the landscape. But today the light shone on us, and we are so grateful to be recognized as one of the nicest places to stay on Cape Cod by not one, but two publications, one national and one international.

First, we received a letter from Foder’s Travel, the leading publisher of guidebooks for American travelers, informing us that the High Pointe Inn has been selected as a “Fodor’s Choice 2010” establishment. Each year their team of expert travel writers from around the globe select an exclusive list of lodging accommodations as the best places to stay while visiting a particular region. This is the second time we have been recognized by Fodor’s as a Cape Cod “Fodor’s Choice” lodging establishment and we are sincerely grateful for the wonderful recognition they bestowed upon us.

Incredibly, as if that weren’t enough, in today’s edition of the London Telegraph, the High Pointe Inn was featured in an article written by Pamela Petro, entitled “Cape Cod: A Cape for all Seasons”, as one of the “finest water-view lodgings” on Cape Cod. We were delighted to among such fine company that included the Chatham Bars Inn and the Wequasett Inn, two of what many consider to be world-class resorts.

We count our blessings every day that we live and work in this beautiful part of the planet and we are delighted to share our small, but intimate B&B with guests who travel here from around the world. With any luck, we’ll be here for many moons to come.

Dinner for Two with an Ocean View

As innkeepers on Cape Cod, Rich and I are often asked for restaurant recommendations by our guests. Part of our job, as we see it, is to be knowledgeable about all things Cape Cod so that we can guide our guests to the best places for an authentic and memorable experience. This includes scouting out the best places to catch a sunset, off-the-beaten path spots for a hike or a picnic, and knowing where all the lighthouses are located and when they might be offering tours. It’s a challenge, but well worth the effort and much-appreciated by our guests.

The High Pointe Inn sits up on a hill overlooking the Great Salt Marsh and the dunes of Sandy Neck Beach, with Cape Cod Bay in the distance. In season, we have the distinct pleasure of serving breakfast on the 75-foot deck that spans the back of the Inn. Guests enjoy having a leisurely breakfast al fresco, listening to and watching the birds, with the scent of summer hydrangea wafting up from the cobblestone courtyard and fountain below.

Dining on or near the water adds a certain something to the experience that is hard to define. Perhaps it’s the vastness of the ocean that puts things into perspective, or the gentle ebb and flow of the sea as it washes ashore that seems to sooth the soul. Whatever it is, dinner for two with an ocean view is one of the most-requested recommendations we are asked for by our guests.

So this year it was our personal goal to seek out, and of course sample, as many restaurants with a water- or ocean-view as time and waistlines allowed. Many restaurants offer an outside dining option along with enclosed dining, but the unifying feature, whether inside or out, is a water view. Here, in no particular order, are several restaurants that meet the criteria and are well worth considering on your next trip to Cape Cod. Bon Appetit!

A Cape Cod Treasure: Long Pasture Wildlife Sanctuary

We were invited to an open house last week at the Long Pasture Wildlife Sanctuary in Barnstable. We have owned the High Pointe Inn on Cape Cod since 2003 and have often driven down Bone Hill Road to visit friends, passing the sign at the entrance to the Sanctuary. But we had never taken the time to drive in and explore the grounds. So we were curious as to what the place was all about.

View from the Visitor's Center

Wednesday dawned bright and beautiful on the Cape, and after serving breakfast to our guests, we gussied ourselves up and headed out for an adventure compliments of Mass Audubon, who operate Long Pasture. You approach the Wildlife Sanctuary from a long dirt drive off Bone Hill Road. At the end of the drive sits a modest cottage clad in cedar shakes and surrounded by grassy fields and dense forest. Our host, Ian Ives, greeted us at the door and welcomed us to explore the visitor’s center while we waited for the other guests to arrive. I found myself drawn to the large picture window at the far end of the room that framed the most incredible view of Sandy Neck, a dune covered barrier beach that extends seven miles and protects Barnstable Harbor from the open waters of Cape Cod Bay.

Once all the guests had arrived, Ian took us on a tour of the 110-acre sanctuary, along a portion of the 2.5 mile trail network, and through a variety of wildlife habitats, explaining the evolution of the property and its current mission. Sherman Parker, original owner of the property, donated a series of parcels to Mass Audubon beginning in 1973 in memory of his wife, thus protecting over 100 acres of harbor front, wetland, and upland for future generations to enjoy. Of particular interest was the Marsh Boardwalk that provides access into the Great Salt Marsh, the second largest salt marsh on the east coast. Throughout the spring, summer, and fall the wildlife sanctuary offers guided kayak trips, some of which launch from the boardwalk, and all of which are guided by a naturalist. You can do a birding paddle, a twilight paddle, a full moon paddle, and much more for $45 per person ($40 for members) including all equipment. Reservations are recommended.

Also gracing the grounds of the sanctuary are vast tidal flats, butterfly and vegetable gardens, and a small collection of farm animals. On Wednesday evenings they offer marine biology lectures, and weekly throughout the summer teachers and naturalists provide interactive, hands-on learning experiences for children, plus adult and family outdoor programs and lectures. Visit Mass Audubon for a list of scheduled programs at Long Pasture, as well as at any of their other facilities located throughout Massachusetts.

The Sanctuary is open every day, dawn to dusk, and you are welcome to bring a picnic to enjoy on the grounds, explore the shoreline, launch a kayak, or just sit back and savor the breathtaking view.

Cape Cod: Free Style

Dog Day Afternoon: At the Cape Cod National Seashore

Lobster Roll Anyone? Try a Cape Cod Church Supper

Where Are the 1,000 Great Places in Massachusetts? Nearly 100 Are on Cape Cod!

Cape Cod Innkeepers’ Day Off at Wellfleet Bay Wildlife Sanctuary

ABBA Restaurant-Our New Cape Cod Favorite

Cape Cod’s Captains’ Mile

Cape Cod’s Finest Lodging Awards

Dinner for Two with an Ocean View

A Cape Cod Treasure: Long Pasture Wildlife Sanctuary

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